Chris and Joe's Playground and Datil

Here is some video of Dylan enjoying the play equipment in Chris and Joanna's backyard.

Our backyard on the other hand is a weed infested mess, well except for the patio. We'll get around to finishing up the backyard eventually. Probably after we build a garage back there so that there is less to maintain and we don't need to destroy something that we put in when we do the garage.

This weekend we headed to Datil on Saturday with Kyle and Emily. Emily is an intern at the gym and was working the kids camps, she finally admitted that she was happy to see the kids walk out the door for the last ime after dealing with them for 2 1/2 months straight. Sadly they are headed back to Idaho for school later this week. Anyway, Kyle sent Technowitch 5.12a and both Emily and Linda gave it a good try as well. I climed 2 routes, one with a thumb brace on which I was constantly pushing against, BAD (see below), and one with nothing on so I held the thumb back which put some stress on the joint, also BAD. So I'll be taking another week off and try again next weekend.

This morning I tried out riding to see how my thumb would put up with it. I sprained my thumb a week and a half ago holding a swing in the Crystal Cave, so I have not been able to climb since then and went for a run while in Datil which was not very good. My right knee is still giving me troubles, felt like someone was stabing an ice pick into the side of my knee if I did not land just right on my stride. Anyway, riding went well as I can keep weight off the joint that hurts and drink with the other hand. I just need to be careful that I don't run into any rough patches without being aware. So I headed up S14 from Tijeras since the pavement is really smooth up there and not so nice on Route 66. Then at teh top since the thumb was feeling pretty good I headed around the race loop out Oak Flat to NM 217. Loads of cyclists out and pretty great weather.

What Else

We went to a new area in the Jemez after I got back from the OR Trade Show while Linda's mom was still here. The area was really pretty, you hike from the road up over a low ridge and drop down into a little river valley on the other side. The area is called the Upper East Fork, of some river presumably and is just up from Las Conchas. The routes are nice, mostly slightly overhanging and the 2 main walls are pretty tall. The Monster Wall which has mostly 5.11 and 5.12 routes is about 60-70 feet tall and the Spegetti Westtern Wall, mostly 5.10 and 5.11 is maybe 90 feet or so, pretty tall for the Jemez. We headed out with Marc Ripper.. and had a good time climbing on new stuff, it is getting hard to find new routes to get on that are not pretty terrible or extreamly hard, so it was nice to climb some new, good 5.11's and 5.12's.

When we first got to the wall Marc and I headed to the base to figure out which routes were which and check the hang for Dylan. As we wandered along the base of the wall there was a bunch of chirping and we almost stepped on some very small birds. They did not take off and fly away but at times they tried. I'm guessing that they had been booted from or something happened to the nest. Marc and I each scooped a bird up to show Dylan, the one I was carrying finally took flight, sort of falling toward the ground in a controled glide then all of a sudden really took off. The bird Marc was carrying just stayed put and Dylan got to check it out up close.

After Dylan had some time with the bird we returned it to where we found them and an hour or so later they were gone. Later in the afternoon we got rained on pretty hard for a bit, pretty typical when your in the mountains at about 10k feet. Here is a shot of Dylan goofing with Popo under the shelter of the wall.

I did not hear him say it but apparently Dylan was saying "Thunder, dangerous, go home" in Cantonees, which was way beyond me, although now I might be able to follow. Needless to say we all did another route to the sound of distant thunder after the rain let up. We hiked out in a light rain and Dylan fell asleep in the Sherpini. All in all a fun day out.

A couple quick videos of Dylan

Here are a couple of quick videos of Dylan. This first one is when I was trying to get him to greet Linda's mom at the airport when she was coming out to watch him so I could go to the OR Trade Show.

Needless to say, it did not go over real well with her, but he eventually warmed up to her after a day or so.

The next is of one of Dylan's new "skills"

He still usually lands off to one side, but he still loves it and then likes to just lay there and wallow in the glory of success.

OR Trade Show Trip

Well I've been back from the trade show for a week now. Had a chance to rest up and get used to being back at home and not understanding half of what Dylan says. Linda's mom tok care of him while I was gone and so he learned quite a bit of Cantonees that I have not had the chance to pick up, not to mention how quick a child learns words.

I met up with the gyms climbing team in Maple Canyon on my way out to Salt Lake City. We climbed up at the Pipe Dream Cave on my first day there and their last day. I then ran into Betty and Eric who I thought were in the Sierras in CA climbing but they had started on their way back to ABQ early. So I climbed with them the next day and one of the kids from the team, Richard who I was taking to the OR Show with me. The next morning Richard and I hung out and taked with Dave Pegg of Wolverine Publishing, some of the best guide books out there come from his company, and waited for Chris Grijavla to show up. Richard and I then headed to the Pipeline and did a few routes and headed to SLC.

The show did not seem as busy as in previous years. Not as many people milling about and there were several empty booths as well. There were also no show stoppers this year, there really was no real buzz about any one thing in climbing. I don't know if suppliers are holding back on things or just hae not been putting the money towards R and D, but in the past years when I've gone to the show there is always a got to have item and there just was not this year. I ate at 3 different breweries in three night, they all had pretty good for, I have no idea about the beer though. Rode my bike once with Sam Krieg who makes chalk bags and saddle bags along with coaching cyclists and racing, probably better than he leads on. He and one of his athleats hammered me on the ride up Big Cottonwood Canyon which is according to them 14 miles and 4000 feet of climbing a good portion of which comes in the first 6.5 miles.

I then headed home after the show closed on Friday, leaving at about 3:45pm after collecting some stuff for the gym, holds and a crash pad and picking up a sweet Flashed Air pad from Trango, Thanks to Scott. I drove straight through and got home about 1:30am and colapsed.

A Look Back at the Triple By-Pass

So as I said in the last post, the Triple By-Pass was a success for the family. Linda, my mom and dad all finished and seemed to be feeling pretty good at the end. They did all get rained on, but luckily for them it happened when they were riding up Vail pass towards the end which allowed them to stay warm. Joanna was not as lucky, she was ahead and was on her way down Vail pass when the skies opened up causing her to freeze. Joanna eventually bailed about 15 miles from the end when she could not stop shivering. Chris on the other hand was way out infront of everyone else and did not get rained on at all until he headed up with me to the top of Vail pass to meet up with everyone as they rode through.

The goal for Joanna and Chris is to do the Death Ride next year. I don't know if my mom will use the Triple as a stepping stone to completing the Death Ride or not. Linda had been saying if she finished the Triple she would never do it again, but after the ride she was open to doing it again. It really is bueatifull, mountains, rivers, amazing bike paths, closed roads and round-abouts through the finishing straight, about the only bad thing is the 6 miles on the interstate, but the shoulder is wide and the big rigs give you a turbo boost when they go by.

Crystal Cave Last Week, New Toy

Dylan and I headed up to the Crystal Cave on Wednesday of last week with Matt, Doug and Richard. Doug kept working on the short version of the Lepor 5.12a, Matt tried Dope 5.13b, Richard was just getting on whatever and I managed to send Faith 5.13c.

Here are some shots of Matt on Dope, passing the first bolt,
and entering the 3rd and final crux, which is shared with Faith.I got Dylan a new toy. Every little kid needs a TONKA truck. Dylan really likes the Dump Truck.

Not only can he load and dump it,

but it can also function as a high chair at the crag for feeding him.

As soon as we got home in the afternoon I started to pack the truck and we headed to Intel to pick Linda up and it was off to CO for the Triple By Pass with my parents and Chris and Joanna. More on that later.

Happy 4th

So, naturally it has been awhile since I last posted.

On Wednesday the 24th Dylan and I went back to the Sandias to climb with John Kear and Carolyn. We all had a good time and miraculously the weather held out and we did not get rained on, just a little spit. I made the probable second ascent of John's route, Insane Clown Posse 5.12+ and John and Carolyn did two routes for the first time, that I bolted with the help of Rip and Pletta a few years ago.

Then over the weekend Linda and I rode to the crest from town and back while Chris and Joanna watched Dylan who had a blast in their yard playing with Triny (Trinity) their 5 year old daughter.

Last week Dylan and I made it out to Big Block on Monday with Richard of Team Mojo and Jeff Leads of Prana and had a good time. On Wednesday we headed out to the Crystal Cave with Doug and 3 kids from Team Mojo, Richard, Liam and Rachel. Richard managed to send Dope 5.13b, not bad for a 14 year old, maybe he's 13. I came very close to doing the full version of Faith 5.13c but will have to live with the short version a couple of times as a workout.

Dylan, seeing all the climbing is starting to trian his open hand strength on the edge of the table as well as his core by holding L-sits. Well at least he is having fun swinging around.

The flowers have been out in force lately at the higher elevations. We saw some great ones up in the Sandias the past couple of weeks and blooming cactus at the Crystal Cave in the Jemez foothills.

On the 3rd we went up to Chris and Joanna's to hang out and celebrate the 4th and Chris' Bday a little early for both. Dylan again had fun with Triny and would follow her everywhere even when she went to brush her teeth.

Today we went to Datil for the day and met up with Carolyn and Anna B. along with Mick and Kari Shien. Mick being the author of the Sandia Rock guide book. It seemed as though everyone had a good time. Linda did The Raven 5.11d on her first try on TR and proptly lead it, which is quite good for her. Carolyn also managed The Raven on TR and plans to try leading it tomorrow, so hopefully all goes well for her.

Well Happy 4th.